Check the above. Then also check the battery voltage. Batteries sometimes fail internally when a plate connection fails. When this happens the circuit opens and you will have no voltage at the terminals. If you do not have a voltmeter, hook up a charger, if you have no current flow, amps on the charger, the battery is more than likely the culprit. You may have jiggled the battery and caused a momentary connection.

Hit the starter button, and everything went dead again! So frustrating! There are relays in the ignitions system. If the battery is not up to snuff the load from the starter drains the power... relays disengage.... everything goes black. I think it's something in the ignition, Manual says make sure you have a good battery before checking this. maybe the coil? Manual says make sure you have a good battery before checking this too. Starter solenoid? Manual says make sure you have a good battery before checking this, also. Would that cause everything to go dead tho? Battery. The battery appears to be brand new! Looks are deceiving. How old is it? 1993? 2003? Any more than a few years old and it can fail at any time. Does it take a charge? You charged since your problems started, right? Do you have a local parts place that will test it? Have you checked it for proper voltage?

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Hi,

I don't know if this will help your problem but I keep meaning to post this incase it helps someone - I had very similar symptoms with my '98 and managed to sort it with some kitchen foil...

The problem I had was that after giving it a 'good run' on the motorway, the bike would just cut-out after I'd been sitting at the traffic lights for a few seconds - so, not cutting out as I'd throttled down on the slip road but a few seconds after I'd stopped. I would then try to restart only to get exactly the same symptoms you've got.

Couldn't figure it out so called the RAC and the guy found the indicator fuse had blown - changed it and everything worked fine again! (Weird.) Next day, same thing happened in exactly the same place - this time I knew what to look for so changed the indicator fuse straight away only this time it didn't solve it. Eventually got recovered back to a Yamaha garage - they finally got round to looking at it later in the day and it started first turn of the key (frustration setting in!).

I got to thinking that it might be related to heat as it was cutting out once I'd stopped after a motorway run - fine on the motorway cos of the airflow but once you've stopped... Can't remember why I thought of it but given that the battery is so close to the rear exhaust manifold, wondered if the heat was soaking through and causing the problem. Looked at heat insulation kits but didn't want to spend £80 unless I could be sure it would solve the problem, so.... I took the battery case right out, wrapped it in kitchen foil and put it all back together - haven't had the problem since. Can only think that the heat was somehow bending the plates in the battery and causing it to short (perhaps the indicator fuse is the first in line from the battery?). By the way, the battery looked in perfect condition externally.

The first time I called the RAC out I was sat waiting for a couple of hours before he changed the fuse and it started - I reckon it had cooled-down which is why when I quickly changed the fuse next time, it didn't work because it hadn't cooled-down. Also would explain why it started first time at the garage.

Anyway, everything runs perfectly now so best £ZERO I ever spent!

Don't know if this helps you but will hopefully help someone. Will get round to posting this on other forums soon.... Chris.

I am currently having a very similar problem.

As long as I keep the engine RPM's up the bike will keep running. If I stop at a light and don't keep the throttle turned, the engine dies and won't restart (clicking sound). I can push start the bike, but I have to keep the engine RPM's up once I get it started or it will die again.

I replaced the battery - didn't fix it.

I replaced the regulator/rectifier - didn't fix it.

Today I have pulled apart half of my electrical system and I don't see any problems anywhere. Everything looks great. I soldered the crimped connections on both the positive AND negative leads from the rectifier to their points of termination. I am adding a "bonding" ground from the negative terminal of battery to where the grounds attach to the frame. I don't really know what else to do.

Does anyone know how to test the regulator/rectifier?

Wow, 72 volts AC should be more than enough to keep the battery charged and the bike running smoothly. Each bike has a specific method for checking a regulator rectifier and this is in the manual.
A voltmeter set on DC volts and placed on the battery terminals with the bike running should read anywhere from 13.5 volts to 14.5 volts. After the checks you have done on the 3 phase alternator for AC, if you do not have the DC at the terminals I would be suspect of the new regulator rectifier and try to borrow a known good one to try in its place.