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Last Post Apr 17, 2009 2:05 PM by: primpenny
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anitas_stuff
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Re: ** Tips on Cleaning Vintage Textiles **

Sep 8, 2002 7:18 PM
I am sure there will be a number of people along to talk about Oxiclean so I am just going to mention what I use for Rust removal.

I have never tried the Lemon trick, but I have been using Carbona (tm) Stain Devils #9 Rust. It is very fast, just minutes. They do have a website with a drop down box by state that lists which stores you can buy it in, in your area.
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thevintagetable
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Re: ** Tips on Cleaning Vintage Textiles **

Sep 9, 2002 4:31 AM
I can buy Carbona Rust nearly everywhere here. Even in my local grocery stores. I've been using Clorox Oxygen Action because it is the same thing as Oxyclean but cheaper for me. I buy it in the big tubs at BJs. I also mix it with Biz because I find Biz (newly reformulated) works better on dirt. By far the best hint for me has been the drying in the sunshine. It really works!
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anitas_stuff
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Re: ** Tips on Cleaning Vintage Textiles **

Sep 9, 2002 6:58 AM
Ah! You are very lucky. I do live in a large city, but I can only get it at Walmart. Where as, the little town across the river, it can be bought at Walmart and all of the fabric stores.. go figure;)and around here Oxygen cost way more then Oxiclean.

More on Oxiclean (since that is what I use)

Oxiclean works best when the water is at it's hottest. So you have to be very careful on the dye on your items.

It does work well in tepid water, but the water has to be hot first to dissolve the oxiclean. Once it is dissolved add cool water if necessary. I did this to remove sweat stains from a 50's formal and a few spots on the lace over skirt. it was an experiment since I only had a few dollars in the dress. Left it in for only about 15 - 30 min. I did not emerge the entire dress, just the bodice and the small sections of the lace. Came out perfect!

Whites - cottons & linens.
I use a Large canning kettle on the stove. Bring the water to a low boil, turn down the heat, add oxiclean. Add items to be washed and simmer for a few hours, depending on the stains. If the items are dirty add a laundry detergent. Rinse out. I sometimes throw them in the washer on rinse cycle. Then hang outside in the Sun to dry. The sun will usually finish the stain removal if necessary. Be careful, because the oxiclean may boil over. Boy, when that happened and I cleaned up the mess, my stove and floor certainly sparkled ;-0 This will also work for embroidered items, if the embroidery floss is color fast.

I also made up a weak solution and wiped down a fiberglass lamp shade. Did a great job!

I will let our resident expert, Pam, tell us how she gets her great vintage tablecloths clean...
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daphne@ebay.com
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Re: ** Tips on Cleaning Vintage Textiles **

Sep 9, 2002 11:03 AM
Thanks, anitas_stuff! Pinning to the top now. ;)

Daphne
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scouter139
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Re: ** Tips on Cleaning Vintage Textiles **

Sep 9, 2002 5:24 PM
Hello Everyone,
One of my added tips is also for rust spots on white garments. I have always used lemon juice, I like the fresh best. Squeeze it on the rust spot and place on the grass in the sun. You may need to add more lemon juice once or twice until the spot is removed. Then launder as usual. I just used this technique on a white t-shirt of my husbands. I have always used this tip on items that were white. I don't know what would happen if you tried it on colors.
Scouter
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scouter139
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Re: ** Tips on Cleaning Vintage Textiles **

Sep 10, 2002 7:10 AM
Howdy All,
I guess it's time to start up our Oxiclean discussion again. I am just going to ramble on what I have tried and what works for me and what doesn't. To those who frequented the corner, this is just a redo of what we discussed before. Jump on in anytime.
I love old textiles, I collect almost anything. I have tableclothes, napkins, aprons, doilies, shoe roses, lace, material, kitchen towels, handkerchiefs (which I use all the time), old lace collars and cuffs, old children's clothes, table scarves, pillowcases and a variety of linens and odds 'n ends. Because I keep most of my textiles, I have been trying different cleaning techniques.
For my delicate items, which would be silks, angora, old lace, anything with bright colors, I start with cold water wash with woolite. I let soak for a little while, I rinse well and dry flat. When you hang something, especially delicate items, the weight of the wet material over the line can pull and break threads. I dry flat on a towel usually, turning occasionally. If in doubt, wash in cold water and dry flat! I rarely put these in the washer and never in the dryer!
Always test colors to see if they run! Never wash multiple items together unless you know for sure the colored items (even colored thread) will not run and ruin the other items. Been there, done that. Take my word for it, better to be cautious.
If you have an item that you know is washer safe, it has some pretty large or bad stains then the next step is Oxiclean(see next post)
Scouter
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scouter139
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Re: ** Tips on Cleaning Vintage Textiles **

Sep 10, 2002 7:35 AM
Oxiclean,
I have tried Biz, I have tried the Clorox Oxygen, I have tried the 2 together. I personally like the Oxiclean best. Now, sometimes depending on where you live, your water supply, etc, you may find that the other products work best for you. The only way to find out is to try them!
I agree that the key to using Oxiclean is using the hottest water the item can stand. I generally boil my water in a tea kettle, then add the Oxiclean and the boiling water to a bucket. I stir until dissolved (also important) then I submerge the item into it. If you can keep the water hot, if the fabric will take it, keep the water at a simmer as Anita listed above. Just be very careful to keep an eye on the pot, don't let the water get low, you will burn your items, etc. I have used a glass bowl and reheated the water and the item in the microwave to keep it warm.
If you can't watch the item on the stove, then just let soak in a bucket over night. The next day, take the item and wash in the washer if it will take it. Before you put it in the dryer, check the stains, are they gone? If they are not, do not put into the dryer, repeat the Oxiclean process again. Sometimes you have to soak an item more than once. The most I had to do was 3 times.
I have used Oxiclean on all types of fabric. Cotton, synthetics, silk (didn't put in washer), ramie, blends, etc.
If there is an item that needs soaked but can't take boiling water, then mix as above, disolving the powder and then mix the hot water with cold until it is either lukewarm or cold. Use this as a soak, again, overnight if possible. Rinse, check and repeat if needed.
I have to tell you all that there have been times that I have ruined pieces, especially when I started collecting. I have misjudged the content of a piece, the fabric, the color stability, the trim, etc. I have intentionally bought damaged pieces to practice on. The more you do it, the better you become at cleaning your goodies.
A story before I finish...
I bought a big bag of textiles at a flea market for $3. There were aprons and doilies and towels and napkins, lots of variety. I dumped the entire thing into the washer and washed the bunch without going through them. Used tide and heavy duty cycle. I then threw everything in the dryer.
As I pulled out the items when they were dry, I came across a child's dress. It was pretty much ruined. I didn't even see it in the bunch of stuff. It turned out to be an old Shirley Temple brand dress with the most exquisite smocking on the top. The dress was ripped terribly with some pretty big holes, I felt aweful. I still saved it just to look at and decided to put it up on Ebay. Even with the extensive damage, it still went for $36. I can imagine, what it would have went for in better condition.
The lesson? Never wash anything without knowing what is in the load. I have learned now to go through everything I buy, even bags of stuff and seperate the items. Good luck.
Scouter
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tasielou
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Re: ** Tips on Cleaning Vintage Textiles **

Sep 10, 2002 10:25 AM
Hello everyone
I love old linens also, any kind! And, I'm always trying out cleaning tips. Thought you all might be interested in my "goof". DON'T use oxiclean on wool or silk. It says it on the directions, but I didn't read them. I was working on some 80 year old crewel draperies, and the wool disintegrated.
Tasielou
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pins-n-needles
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Re: ** Tips on Cleaning Vintage Textiles **

Sep 10, 2002 11:59 AM
May I repeat -- DO NOT USE OXICLEAN ON WOOL OR SILK.

You cannot wash every fiber and every fabric.

Some fabrics have sizing that are water soluable. If you wash them, the sizing is GONE FOR GOOD and you are left with limp rag-looking crap for fabric. If you don't know, don't wash it.

I just started another thread about this. I really DO NOT recommend that you wash most fabrics before you sell them. First off, even if you are certain cleaning is necessary before attempting to sell, determine the fiber content of the fabric first.

Some rayons don't wash well, nor do some silks -- they'll lose their luster and hand. I don't recommend washing most wools at all. Acetate is a huge no no-- do not wash acetate...you won't be happy with the results.

If the fabric must be dry-cleaned before selling (and I do this with most woolens as it is the "moth hole test" -- if there are any moth holes, they will show up after dry cleaning as the solvent removes the "moth spit" holding the hole closed), use a reputable cleaners that you can trust...and try to find one that does "bulk" cleaning (cleaning only, no pressing--it's much cheaper).



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scouter139
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Re: ** Tips on Cleaning Vintage Textiles **

Sep 10, 2002 6:39 PM
Evening everyone,
I was browsing a websight I like for fabrics and found some info on different types of fibers/fabrics. It has info on how it is produced, it's care etc.
Today's info is on wool.
For centuries, sheep have provided mankind with food and clothing. Like flax (see Round Bobbin, May1999), wool was a very popular and widely used fiber until the Industrial Revolution. Sheep breeding and production in the United States is traced to Jamestown, Virginia, in 1609 and in Massachusetts as early as 1630. The sheep industry grew quickly and spread throughout the Northeast.

The New England textile industry can be traced to 1643 when English wool combers and carders settled in the region and began producing finished wool fabric. After the United States Civil War, the sheep industry moved west, reaching a peak of 50 million sheep in 1884. The sheep population has slowly declined since.

Types of Wool

The type of wool that a sheep produces varies by breed. For example, Merino sheep produce wool that is very fine. Merino wool is thus considered the most valuable of wools. Australia produces about 43 percent of the world’s Merino wool.

United States sheep producers raise four breeds of sheep that produce fine wool and fifteen breeds that produce medium-grade and coarse wools. The medium-grade wool comes from breeds raised primarily for food. Though sheep produces exist in all states (except Hawaii), most sheep operations are in the West.

The Production Process

Shearing – Sheep are sheared once per year, usually in the spring. The wool is trimmed in one piece, called a fleece.
Scouring – The fleece is washed to remove impurities, such as dirt, grease and dried sweat. Impurities account for between 30 and 70 percent of the fleece weight. At this point, the wool is considered cleaned wool or scoured wool. The grease that is removed is considered a valuable by-product. Lanolin, in its purified state, is used in creams, soaps, lotions, cosmetics and ointments.
Carding – The wool is combed to straighten the fibers.
Spinning – Once straightened, the fibers can be spun into yarn.
Characteristics of Wool

Durability: Wool fabrics are very durable and flexible. It can withstand being bent 20,000times without breaking. In comparison, cotton breaks after 3,000 bends and rayon can only be bent 75 times without breaking.

Comfort: Wool is an excellent insulator. It keeps heat close to the body by trapping still or dead air within the fibers. To a certain degree, wool is considered water repellent. Small amounts of liquid, such as spills, light rain or snow, will stay on the surface or run off the fabric. Wool fabrics also wick moisture away from the skin, keeping the wearer dryer when sweating and cooler when hot.

Care: Wool garments do not soil easily and are not easily spotted by grease and oils. These characteristics decrease the need to clean wool garments after every use. Recommended care for most wool garments is dry cleaning, however advances in technology have produced washable wools for more than 20 years. Washable wool garments with improved hand and shrinkage resistance are being developed. Wool blended with synthetic fibers and/or treated with special finishes help achieve the easy care characteristics.

Flammability: Wool is popular with interior designers because it is considered naturally flame retardant. While it will burn if exposed to flame, it burns slowly. When the flame is removed, the fabric usually quits burning.

Cost: Wool garments are not cheap. Consequently, wool is considered a luxury fiber. The initial cost of wool garments combined with the cost of dry cleaning makes wool clothing a continual investment. The high cost of wool clothing has lead to a number of synthetic substitutions. Acrylic, for example, imitates the characteristics of wool better than any other manufactured fiber.

The more we learn about our textiles, the better care we can take of them.

Scouter
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scouter139
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Re: ** Tips on Cleaning Vintage Textiles **

Sep 11, 2002 5:32 PM
Our next subject is SILK
SILK, the fabric that makes its own statement. Say "silk" to someone and what do they visualize? No other fabric generates quite the same reaction. For centuries silk has had a reputation as a luxurious and sensuous fabric, one associated with wealth and success. Silk is one of the oldest textile fibers known to man. It has been used by the Chinese since the 27th century BC. Silk is mentioned by Aristotle and became a valuable commodity both in Greece and Rome. During the Roman Empire, silk was sold for its weight in gold.

Today, silk is yet another word for elegance, and silk garments are prized for their versatility, wearability and comfort. Silk, or soie in French, is the strongest natural fiber. A steel filament of the same diameter as silk will break before a filament of silk. Silk absorbs moisture, which makes it cool in the summer and warm in the winter. Because of its high absorbency, it is easily dyed in many deep colors. Silk retains its shape, drapes well, caresses the figure, and shimmers with a luster all its own.

Contemporary silk garments range from evening wear to sports wear. A silk suit can go to the office and, with a change of accessories and a blouse, transform into an elegant dinner ensemble. Silk garments can be worn for all seasons.

Silk -- elegant, versatile and washable. In the past, owning a silk garment meant not only the initial price of the garment but also the cost of dry cleaning. All silk is washable. Silk is a natural protein fiber, like human hair, taken from the cocoon of the silkworm. The natural glue, sericin, secreted by silkworms and not totally removed during manufacturing of the silk, is a natural sizing which is brought out when washing in warm water. Most silk fabrics can be hand washed. Technically, silk does not shrink like other fibers. If the fabric is not tightly woven, washing a silk with tighten up the weave.... thus, lighter weights of silk (say a crepe de chine of 14 mm) can be improved by washing as it will tighten up the weave. A tightly woven silk will not "shrink" or will "shrink" a lot less. Silk garments, however, can shrink if the fabric has not been washed prior to garment construction. When washing silk, do not wring but roll in a towel. Silk dries quickly but should not be put in an automatic dryer unless the fabric is dried in an automatic dryer prior to garment construction. A good shampoo works well on silk. It will remove oil and revitalize your silk. Do not use an alkaline shampoo or one which contains ingredients such as wax, petroleum, or their derivatives, as these products will leave a residue on your silk and may cause "oil" spots. If static or clinging is a problem with your silks, a good hair conditioner (see above cautions) may be used in the rinse water.

Silk may yellow and fade with the use of a high iron setting. Press cloths and a steam iron are recommended. Silk is also weakened by sunlight and perspiration.
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anitas_stuff
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Re: ** Tips on Cleaning Vintage Textiles **

Sep 11, 2002 6:11 PM
Wow Cindi, Did you write that yourself? If I wasn't already a BIG, HUGE fan of silk you would have converted me:-o I have been washing silk for decades just as Cindi recommends. Though not in the beginning;) I had to learn by trial an error in the beginning ... One cautionary point that I would like to make. Recently I washed a silk hanky that was printed. It was already damaged so I wanted to test the dye of the print. Yup! it ran.... so you do want to watch out for some of the older silk items if they have a printed design.... Good Job! .... Anita
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pins-n-needles
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Re: ** Tips on Cleaning Vintage Textiles **

Sep 12, 2002 1:02 PM
You know, the biggest problem with washing modern silk is that it usually removes the chemical sizings added for body and luster.

I truly think that washing silk depends on the fabric and the garment constructed from it.



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scouter139
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Re: ** Tips on Cleaning Vintage Textiles **

Sep 12, 2002 8:41 PM
Nope, didn't write the articles, these are excerps from the fabric websight I like. They are just chock full of info but the sight is difficult to navigate.
Today's is Cotton

COTTON, cool, soft, comfortable, the principal clothing fiber of the world. Its production is one of the major factors in world prosperity and economic stability. Cotton "breathes". What would we do without cotton? Since cotton wrinkles, polyester was added to give it wash and wear properties for a busy world. In recent times, the consumer determined that polyester, although easier to care for, took away the cool from cotton and also added a "pilling" effect to cotton/polyester blends. Consumers now often request "100% Cotton". Permanent finishes also added to the all cotton fabric gave a wash and wear property to cotton. The cotton fiber is from the cotton plant’s seed pod, the fiber is hollow in the center and, under a microscope looks like a twisted ribbon. "Absorbent" cotton will retain 24-27 times its own weight in water and is stronger when wet than dry. This fiber absorbs and releases perspiration quickly, thus allowing the fabric to "breathe". Cotton can stand high temperatures and takes dyes easily. Chlorine bleach can be used to restore white garments to a clear white but this bleach may yellow chemically finished cottons or remove color in dyed cottons. Boiling and sterilizing temperatures can also be used on cotton without disintegration. Cotton can also be ironed at relatively high temperatures, stands up to abrasion and wears well.

Mercerized cotton is treated to permanently straighten the cotton fibers which then becomes a smooth, rod-like fiber that is uniform in appearance with a high luster. Cotton is often blended with other fibers such as polyester, linen, wool, to "blend" the best properties of each fiber.
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