I can't see what would be so hard baout working with it. It might be similar to working with Satin, but I can't see it being as difficult as satin even as satin unravels and Lame' I don't think is unravelly.

I don't see what would be so difficult to work with about it. Everyone has their own opinions on what difficult to work with though, I had heard a number of people say how terrible Minkee Blankee is to work with, and I don't find it problematic at all, so it is in the eye of the beholder. Try it and see what you think, if you run into a specific problem then as for help as we will be better equipped to help you out with a specific issue rather than a broad generalization..

Cheers
chey

~CHEERS ~Chey The key to success is not having a Plan B

TIPS & TECHNIQUES FOR SEWING SPECIAL OCCASION FABRICS Special occasion fabrics such as lame’ are more challenging to sew. But by combining the tips below with a little extra time and attention, you'll do fine. Know Before You Sew Lame' can snag easily and ravel badly. They are frequently scratchy and irritate the skin; they may also pick or scratch satin-weave fabrics. Most are easily marred by pins, needles, rough sewing surfaces, ripping, and improper pressing. Most require a directional layout. Some are slippery, making them more difficult to handle. Metallic, sequined, and beaded fabrics dull scissors and sewing machine needles. Machine stitching problems such as puckered seams and creeping under layers are frequently a problem. Many are susceptible to seam slippage on closely fitted designs and at stress points. Perspiration and water will stain the fabric, so be careful. * Lining eliminates the need for seam & hem finishes. * Avoid over handling delicate fabrics. To reduce raveling, avoid handling the fabric unnecessarily, or use a fray retardant on all raw edges immediately after cutting. (Note: Always test the fray retardant first; it may stiffen the fabric and discolor it.) Mark lightly and sparsely with thread tracing, chalk, soap sliver, temporary marking pens, racing wheel and tracing carbon, or small safety pins. Always test the marking technique on a fabric scrap before using. Stitching Tips Clean your machine before beginning. Be sure there is no oily residue around the feed dogs. Make several test seams before beginning the garment. Use a new, small-size needle. A Universal H-point or Red Band needle works well on most fabrics. Use a straight-stitch, roller, even-feed, or jeans foot to hold the fabric firmly so the fabric won’t creep, puckers, or disappear into the needle hole. Set the machine for a balanced tension, normal pressure, and 10-15 stitches per inch or 1.75-2.5 mm. To prevent puckering, stitch slowly; hold the fabric taut; and/or use paper or stabilizer between the fabric and feed dogs. To avoid ripping and permanent needle marks, hand baste for fitting. Use small-sized (size 8-10) needles. If you must rip a machine-stitched line, scratch the fabric lightly with your thumbnail or a fine needle to hide needle holes. Topstitching is best avoided. Sewing Hints Narrow double-ply seams work well on lightweight and transparent materials. Finish the edges of seams and hems as flatly as possible. Finishes such as serged, zigzagged, hand overcast, and tricot binding are appropriate for most designs. To avoid thread imprints when serging use a texturized nylon thread on the loopers. For a softer, more luxurious look interface hemlines with bias-cut interfacing or cotton flannel. Avoid fusible interfacings. Pressing Before pressing, clean the iron soleplate with hot iron cleaner or silver polish. Use denatured alcohol to remove fusible resins and a cotton swab to clean the steam holes. If the soleplate is beyond cleaning, cover it with a detachable non-stick soleplate. Replace the ironing board cover with a clean, white sheet. Test press on a fabric scrap. A warm dry iron and light pressing is best. Press from the wrong side as much as possible. To avoid glazing, always use a press cloth when pressing the right side. Use a seam roll and brown paper strips to avoid seam and hem impressions on the outside of the garment. When pressing satin-weave fabrics, do not press across the fabric.

Good luck, you are braver than I!!!

Cheers
Chey

~CHEERS ~Chey The key to success is not having a Plan B

I used to sew with lame' a lot, your needle is very very important. Like was said before small needle 8-10 and new. Lame' has a tendency to get runs if your needle is not very sharp and new. Test on a scrap before starting to make sure you don't get runs. Other than that I don't think it is hard to sew with at all.

Good luck
Pat

Hi -- I have also made things from Lame'-I didn't find it hard to work with -- except for the runs as Pat says - Another thing be sure to underline -or the garment will pull apart -- - it is not a very sturdy fabric -- but if you underline with say cotton -- the pull will be on that --i learned this the hard way --LOL -- Jean

I think she means to line the lame with cotton. Anywhere the pattern calls for lame, just cut another piece from cotton, and put it under the lame. Cheryl

Yes --Cheryl -that is what i mean -- i tried useing fuseable interfacing --but could never it to look smoothe --you cant really iron this stuff--lol-- i made girls dresses with ruffles -- firatones i made pulled apart -- so i underlined the skirt and cut the ruffles on bias -- it worked great then -- i do love this stuff and the kids did to -- Jean

I am working with lame right now and it is nearly impossible. Those that said they found it little problem, I believe they were using tissue lame. There are two types of lame. Tissue and knit. The tissue type ravels unbelievably, but sews without too much trouble. The knit type swims like crazy when you try to sew 2 pieces together with the shiny right sides together. I have tried sewing it with the machine and it simply doesn't sew. If someone has worked with knit metallic lame fabrics and sewn it successfully on a machine, I would love to hear about it.
Thanks

I don't know if I am encouraged or frightened after reading all the great information about Tissue Lame'. I work for a Special Events company and usually sew huge volumes of props for the Macy's Thanksgiving Day Parade. I am about to undertake making 250 flags to be used by Color Guard for the Cotton Bowl Half-Time Performance in Dallas. Should I use a serger and Fray-check? or should I use my machine with copious amounts of small, sharp needles? I am actually attaching a curved piece of silver tissue lame' to red rip-stop nylon, that is part of some flags we already have.

I would greatly appreciate any insight prior to this huge and costly project! Thanks!

For the tin man outfit, I would of fused the lame to cotton and then sewed it together. This would stablize it and also make it easer to sew. The lame would be sturdier too.

Regarding the Lame colorguard flags... This is my 4th year for making guard flags. First if you haven't cut them yet, use a "hot knife" - wood burning tool - you should be able to find this at the craft store. It seals the edges, no hemming needed. I always serger the seams and then fray-check the seams & edges. It works! Good luck... Sheryl aka Guard Mom

Hey Color Guard moms. I'm sewing with lame` and straight lines are okay, but now I have curves and circles. The lame pieces can't seem to take the curve and tear away at the stitching. I am now trying Fray Check. Has this worked for any of you? Interested in hearing from the lady making flags for the Cotton Bowl.