Docgipe, Dwaine Gipe, Montoursville, Pennsylvania has been an artist craftsman and teaching artist for about twenty years. The childhood and early adult activities in arts and crafts grew into doll restoration. His wife Betty has been supportive as a coach and wig care person. Betty has studied and developed wig making techniques similar to the original German wefted and hand made mohair or human hair wigs.

The system addressed here tonight can be used to restore nearly anything that antiquers and collectors would wish to restore. Anyone with average or better arts and crafts experience can learn restoration. Doc is a frequent chatter on the doll chat boards. He is a video publisher and half owner of the only nationally advertised G & M Doll Restoration Seminars. Doc is semi-retired. The date of full retirement has been set for October 2002.

The pictures and manuscript of this workshop are covered under copyright. You have our expressed permission to copy either or both and share with your friends within the concept of not using for profit. This thread will be maintained for some time. I will respond to questions after the entry tonight and frequently while the thread is maintained.

The modern materials and techniques shown, in this workshop, are similar to those being used by nearly all restoration persons today. They all can be reversed or removed. This satisfies most if not all principles applied to restoration.

My partner JoAnn Mathias, of Virginia Beach, Virginia and I have selected these tools, machines, and techniques with quality procedure and finish as our only goal. We have found that professional restoration can not be achieved using less than the best. All of our students have been able to grasp and develop above average quality work with just four days of instruction. Many have joined the ranks of excellent restoration persons using this system of restoration.

We present this workshop as a demonstration and statement of what we personally do and teach to others. Our presentation is not intended to be complete in each and every detail. If you disagree with any part of this workshop simply ignore that which you may not like. We hope that there may be some ideas and solutions for nearly everyone posted in the workshop.

Let us begin with the major players. The picture shows Evercoat 400 and 417, a pilot knife, and some spreaders. Also showing is a tube of white cream hardener. This product may be found by seeking in the yellow pages for "Automotive Paint and Supply Wholesale”. This product is polyester. Every fender bender fixer uses it or an equal daily. Evercoat is the company name we like best. Can't find it talk to your neighborhood fender bender fixer shop. There are many polyesters out there. We simply feel that Evercoat is the best in our area.

The primary use of polyester in restoration is for large area fills done quickly. This product cures in five to seven minutes and may be sanded, drilled or carved shortly later. It is non-absorbent to moisture when cured. It is not a cement but serves this purpose in many restoration situations. Evercoat 400 is a puttylike material while 417 is the consistency of a thick milkshake. The 417 will fill tight areas and pin holes where 400 will not work as well. Both sand easily and finish nicely. Polyester will hold any paint applied to its surface.

The third player is a Polymer from Van Dykes Taxidermy catalog. They call it a Polymer Finish Kit. Also pictured is a one inch red sable Grumbacker Artists brush and Acetone. You absolutely need the "100% red sable brush". I`ll let you discover....no I will tell you now. About $40.00. Any brush much less expensive will have synthetic fibers that melt in acetone. Acetone is the only known cleaner for the polymers. In addition you scrub this product on in the least amount possible. Now that is different! It however is important. Scrub and cross brush to the absolute least you can have on the doll and never a little bit more for good luck.

This is the product you will love and hate. Done properly it catches all of your little shortcomings. Done to heavy on doll it will run and catch your disgruntled attention the next morning. It is not necessary to use this product but it is the one, when used right, that will give you a professional finish ready for painting with the least amount of work. Everyone messes up one time. It is sandable but oh my...Don't go there if you can avoid it. This product drops into craze you did not even know you had and totally locks up and seals the part being painted. This product is not used or needed on small spot restorations. Only use it on half a head or a whole body part. You can feather the hair line on the head but other body parts should be totally done with polymer or not done at all. This products primary use is on composition, wood and papier mache dolls. It may be used on tin and hard plastic and even on vinyl.

We have been a Paasche Distributor, for many years. We use just a few of their fine products because in one instance there is no equal.

The Paasche Model AB or ABL, left handed has no equal anywhere in the world. It is a turbine driven airbrush that will make a spot the size of a pinhead up to a pattern of about one half inch. They claim it will do finer and larger work but my hands and coordination limit me to what I have presented. This is the brush that makes eye shadow, blush and color feathering into the old paints a piece of cake. It cleans easily.

The Model D Compressor is required to drive the turbine of the AB airbrushes. Less expensive craft models will not be satisfactory for professional use of the AB or ABL.

Our fast coverage airbrush is a single action Paasche Model H#1. This is an important choice because no paint goes through the airbrush. It is easy to keep clean.

The air hose we use is a product # 6’ ¼” MT (six foot, with moisture and dirt inline trap). The moisture and dirt trap is a must for all use. The trap is a replacement item. Your local hobby stores and their shop persons may have never handled these items. Be alert to the fact that there is no equal to professional quality equipment.

Our final important reason for using the best is the excellent, in company, in USA, service and advisement department. Without them I do not believe we would be making this presentation. A finer support company does not exist.

Health and quality issues are of most importance. The safest paint a crafts person can use is water based. We are just a little bit ahead of Detroit’s automotive folks. They have a mandate to go to water base yesterday if not sooner. The only reason they have not is they have no suitable finish for the outdoor elements. We do not deal with the outdoor elements. Dr. Martin’s Spectralite Water Based Acrylics is our choice. In every way these paints are superior to any others we have tried. Very important is the fact they stick to all
surfaces that do not contain wax, oil or silicone. They are airbrush ready. They have great
UV blocking quality. Instant dry is almost a fact when used with an airbrush. Hand brushed details are possible with the same paints. Strength of color is most important.
They have coordinated air brush cleaners and extenders. I personally have never used any other line of paints. We can find none better for the purpose of color matching with consistency. We hope most crafts persons and restoration persons have stopped using the
more dangerous automotive paints and oil based paints. They are significantly more dangerous and difficult to use. Many other paints are of less durable lasting quality

Broken and chipped chalk is sometimes difficult to restore. This puppy is Carnival Chalk from the 1930 – 1940s. This is a great spot for Apoxie Sculpt by AVES. A small inexpensive size is available through mail order. Larger sizes are available, for professional use.

Our Carnival Chalk Scotty dog is now painted with Dr. Martin’s Spectralite water based acrylic paint. The finish is a medium gloss Duncan clear spray can acrylic. Cost of materials on this job about seventy five cents.